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Sealing Painted Kitchen Cabinets

Sealing Painted Kitchen Cabinets

I’m a sucker for painted cabinets. I never understand those people on House Hunters who declare their hatred for white kitchen cabinets. That’s about when I turn the channel. I have painted my kitchen cabinets in my last three homes. And I’d do it again every single time. It’s worth it. Friends walk into my kitchen and are always curious about painting their own kitchen cabinets. They ask about every detail. What kind of special paint did I use? How much sanding did it take? Was it messy? Did it take forever? Did I use a sprayer? and on and on. I think people have this idea that painting kitchen cabinets is a huge ordeal. It’s really not. I’m fairly lazy when it comes to painting prep, I just want to get to the good part. With all of my kitchen cabinet makeovers I did very little sanding of the cabinets. I used regular old latex paint in semi-gloss (allows you to wipe it down). I always clean the cabinets with T.S.P., do one coat of primer, and 2 coats of paint. And I never sand in between the coats of paint. The hardest part is taking all the doors and hinges off (labeling them) and then having to reinstall them all. But the painting part really isn’t that hard. My first two kitchens were pre children. Before plasma cars and hockey sticks made a daily appearance in my kitchen. Those cabinets never had a dent or scratch on them. Even a tiny splatter of spaghetti sauce was wiped off within seconds of ever landing on a cabinet door. This time my kitchen has met its match. My current kitchen is a whole other level of dirty. Sometimes I’m amazed our house is even still standing. My husband and I joke that there’s no point in cleaning. We’ll just burn the house down when the boys move out. I painted these cabinets almost four years ago. And they held up pretty well for the first two years. But now they are starting to show some wear. I think our biggest problem is that each of our doors and drawers still have child proof locks on them. So every time we open them we have to put our hands on the actual door and not the knob. The cutlery drawer takes the most abuse. This is the only upper cabinet showing some wear. But I do find the white cabinets get dirty around the knobs. The cabinets directly below my sink have also seen more wear than other areas. This area gets wiped down a lot more often. Good news is that these scratches are easy to fix. I just sanded the area down a bit, just to get it smooth. And repainted. I did have to repaint the entire front of that door or drawer front. But it takes only a few minutes to do so and I didn’t even take them off the hinges to do it. That’s what I love most about painted cabinets. You can easily fix anything with a coat of paint. Before I painted this kitchen the dated honey oak cabinets had water damage in a few areas. And that’s impossible to hide. I’m getting ready to paint the cabinets again. I’m thinking more of a grey than a blue. 1. I’m going to buy the best primer I can find, and I’ll do two coats of primer this time. 2. Clean the cabinets with something like T.S.P. really well. Last time I was pretty lazy with this. 3. I’ll still do it in phases. I picked one week to do the upper cabinets on the left side, the next week I did the lower cabinets on the left side etc. Especially with kids this makes a big difference. 4. With little kids in the house I think I will always keep my lower cabinets dark and the uppers white. The dark paint really does hide those little finger prints. 5. And the biggest change I would make is using a topcoat of Minwax water-based Polycrylic. I’ve used this product on painted furniture and it’s been great. But first test it on a small area to be sure it doesn’t yellow (if using white paint). For just a couple of hundred dollars you can completely change the look of your kitchen. I find it makes cooking food for kids who never eat anything way more enjoyable. I promise you can’t possible regret it. To see more makeovers follow along on Pinterest, Instagram, Twitter, or Facebook.
sealing painted kitchen cabinets 1

Sealing Painted Kitchen Cabinets

Home Applying a Polyurethane Finish to Cabinets Applying a Polyurethane Finish to Cabinets A polyurethane varnish finish can cut down on the wear and tear of kitchen cabinets, help keep them looking new and extend the life of the cabinets. Polyurethane works best on unfinished wood but can also be painted directly onto painted surfaces. When you apply polyurethane varnish, you’re actually sealing it in plastic. It is a plastic so tough that hardly anything can penetrate it. In addition to this exceptional durability, polyurethane is easy to put on; fairly fast-drying; super-resistant to chemicals and water; and available in low-gloss, satin, and high-gloss finishes. It also comes in oil based and water based. Preparation before applying polyurethane to kitchen cabinets Before applying polyurethane, complete the preparation steps for either stripping paint or preparing for new paint. These steps may include using paint remover, sanding and filling and sealing. If you’ve applied a stain or wood filler to the surface, make sure it is absolutely dry before adding the polyurethane. Apply either oil-based or water-based polyurethane with a brush, lambs-wool applicator, or lint-free cloth. Latex polyurethane is easy to use with a sprayer; oil-based poly tends to clog up the works, so you’re better off doing this by hand. All types of wood require at least two coats of oil-based polyurethane. The first coat works as a primer and sealer; the second serves as a finish coat. With water-based polyurethane, a third coat is recommended, because the finish wears away fairly quickly. Sand between coats if dust or lint gets into the wet finish. Sanding also makes it easier to tell where you applied the subsequent coat. Troubleshooting polyurethane finishes on kitchen cabinets When you add the finish – both coats – keep the work surface between you and a light (if possible). In this way, you will see missed spots as the finish is applied. Missed spots are caused by poor penetration into the wood or inadequate application. They leave little dimples in the finish, and they’re almost impossible to touch up after the material has dried. Not all polyurethanes are clear. Some are colored to resemble pigmented shellac. With these, you’ll usually need to apply several coats of the finish to reach the color tone that you want on your kitchen cabinets. Each coat will produce a deeper tone; so try a test run on a scrap of the same material to determine how many coats you will need. If you reach the color tone before achieving the sheen you want, let the surface of the cabinets dry thoroughly, and then apply clear polyurethane finish to complete the project. However, the clear finish will slightly change the color tone underneath. You can apply a clear polyurethane finish over paint. Don’t expect the polyurethane to hide any defects in the material. In addition, if you are painting your kitchen cabinets solid white, you must understand they will yellow somewhat over time. Low-gloss polyurethanes are less durable than high-gloss products. Use low-gloss finishes as top coals to cut the shine off high-gloss coatings underneath. High gloss is recommended for applying to kitchen cabinets. Important note As with varnish and shellac finishes, dust and dirt control is critical with polyurethane. Cover all ducts carrying air currents blowing from heating and cooling. Avoid doing anything that would cause dust to become airborne, especially sweeping the floor just before the finish to the kitchen cabinets is applied. Use a tack cloth to remove dust from the work.
sealing painted kitchen cabinets 2

Sealing Painted Kitchen Cabinets

A polyurethane varnish finish can cut down on the wear and tear of kitchen cabinets, help keep them looking new and extend the life of the cabinets. Polyurethane works best on unfinished wood but can also be painted directly onto painted surfaces. When you apply polyurethane varnish, you’re actually sealing it in plastic. It is a plastic so tough that hardly anything can penetrate it. In addition to this exceptional durability, polyurethane is easy to put on; fairly fast-drying; super-resistant to chemicals and water; and available in low-gloss, satin, and high-gloss finishes. It also comes in oil based and water based. Preparation before applying polyurethane to kitchen cabinets Before applying polyurethane, complete the preparation steps for either stripping paint or preparing for new paint. These steps may include using paint remover, sanding and filling and sealing. If you’ve applied a stain or wood filler to the surface, make sure it is absolutely dry before adding the polyurethane. Apply either oil-based or water-based polyurethane with a brush, lambs-wool applicator, or lint-free cloth. Latex polyurethane is easy to use with a sprayer; oil-based poly tends to clog up the works, so you’re better off doing this by hand. All types of wood require at least two coats of oil-based polyurethane. The first coat works as a primer and sealer; the second serves as a finish coat. With water-based polyurethane, a third coat is recommended, because the finish wears away fairly quickly. Sand between coats if dust or lint gets into the wet finish. Sanding also makes it easier to tell where you applied the subsequent coat. Troubleshooting polyurethane finishes on kitchen cabinets When you add the finish – both coats – keep the work surface between you and a light (if possible). In this way, you will see missed spots as the finish is applied. Missed spots are caused by poor penetration into the wood or inadequate application. They leave little dimples in the finish, and they’re almost impossible to touch up after the material has dried. Not all polyurethanes are clear. Some are colored to resemble pigmented shellac. With these, you’ll usually need to apply several coats of the finish to reach the color tone that you want on your kitchen cabinets. Each coat will produce a deeper tone; so try a test run on a scrap of the same material to determine how many coats you will need. If you reach the color tone before achieving the sheen you want, let the surface of the cabinets dry thoroughly, and then apply clear polyurethane finish to complete the project. However, the clear finish will slightly change the color tone underneath. You can apply a clear polyurethane finish over paint. Don’t expect the polyurethane to hide any defects in the material. In addition, if you are painting your kitchen cabinets solid white, you must understand they will yellow somewhat over time. Low-gloss polyurethanes are less durable than high-gloss products. Use low-gloss finishes as top coals to cut the shine off high-gloss coatings underneath. High gloss is recommended for applying to kitchen cabinets. Important note As with varnish and shellac finishes, dust and dirt control is critical with polyurethane. Cover all ducts carrying air currents blowing from heating and cooling. Avoid doing anything that would cause dust to become airborne, especially sweeping the floor just before the finish to the kitchen cabinets is applied. Use a tack cloth to remove dust from the work.

Sealing Painted Kitchen Cabinets

Sealing Painted Kitchen Cabinets
Sealing Painted Kitchen Cabinets
Sealing Painted Kitchen Cabinets
Sealing Painted Kitchen Cabinets

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